12 Bordeaux Wines, Made by Vignerons, to Drink Now

Chateau Massereau Vin de France Cuvée Tradition 2018, 13.5 percent, $27

Chateau Massereau makes both sweet wines and dry reds like this one. This cuvée is generally 60 percent merlot, 30 percent cabernet sauvignon, with the remainder split between cabernet franc and petit verdot. Massereau used to be labeled Bordeaux Supérieur, but withdrew its wines from the appellation after running afoul of the staid bureaucracy. It now bottles the dry wines as Vin de France. Regardless, it is pointed, precise, savory and refreshing, structured but not tannic, with a slight herbal edge. (Camille Riviere/Fruit of the Vines)

Credit…Tony Cenicola/The New York Times

Chateau Auney l’Hermitage Graves White Cuvée Cana 2018, 13 percent, $30

The virtues of dry white Bordeaux are a hard sell, possibly because good examples from the best areas, Pessac-Léognan and Graves, are expensive and not easy to find. I love white Bordeaux and I love the succulence of the semillon grape. (Cuvée Cana is 50 percent Sémillon, 35 percent Sauvignon Blanc, 10 percent Sauvignon Gris and 5 percent Muscadelle, an unusual blend in a region where Sémillon and the other grapes have lost ground to Sauvignon Blanc.) Like Chenin Blanc, Sémillon has a floral , honeyed flavor, a mineral tang and a luscious texture that keeps me rolling it around in my mouth because it feels so good. Auney l’Hermitage farms its vineyard organically on gravelly sand and clay. (Rosenthal Wine Merchant, New York)

Credit…Tony Cenicola/The New York Times

White House Montagne-St.-Émilion 2018, 14.5 percent, $42

The DEspagne family farms its Montagne-St.-Émilion vineyard biodynamically and makes its wines with minimal artifice. Depending on the vintage, this wine can be anywhere from 20 percent to 50 percent cabernet franc, with the rest merlot. The 2018 is dense and concentrated, with complex flavors of dark fruit, licorice and spices. It’s structured and should age for years. (Mass selection)

Credit…Tony Cenicola/The New York Times

Clos du Jaugueyron Haut-Medoc 2017, 12.5 percent, $45

Clos du Jaugueyron is one of my favorite small Bordeaux estates. Its proprietor, Michel Théron, farms about 17 acres biodynamically, and his wines are deliciously pure. The Haut-Médoc is 60 percent cabernet sauvignon, 33 percent merlot and 7 percent petit verdot. It’s lightly tannic, with floral, stony flavors, and is a pleasure to drink. Jaugueyron also makes a superb Margaux. (Mass selection)

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